This year the festivities are back in full force. After two years with a programme heavily affected by the pandemic and with a celebration being experienced “from a distance”, the 2022 Romaria promises a grand return.
We are all Pilgrimage
The month of August is synonymous with countless attractions: holidays and the beach (for many), the return of migrants, popular festivals, among others. It is in this month that, since 1783, the Pilgrimage in honor of Our Lady of Agony takes place in Viana do Castelo. In a festival that has become, over time, one of the biggest and most beautiful in our country, tradition and its deep connection to the Sea and Its People reign."Pilgrimage to Our Lady of Agony - Viana do Castelo". Painting by Alfredo Januário de Moraes (1872-1971)
The history of the Pilgrimage
The data varies, but the longevity of this worship is certain: the city's devotion to the patron saint of fishermen dates back to somewhere between the 17th and 18th centuries. Since then, they have been grateful for her protection in fishing activities, and in the adversities that arise from them, in the form of storms and shipwrecks. It all began in the Chapel of Bom Jesus do Santo Sepulcro do Calvário , built in 1674 and later dedicated to Marian worship, which came to be called the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Soledade in 1706. It was only in 1744 that it was given its definitive title of Nossa Senhora da Agonia, later expanded and blessed, and since 1783, it has been the site of the annual Solemn Mass on August 20, a date that would become a municipal holiday and mark the main day of the Pilgrimage.Three days of tradition
Today, the Saint is the queen of pilgrimages and the varied traditions of what is unanimously recognized as the greatest popular Portuguese festival, repeated annually on the 18th, 19th and 20th of August . These three days are marked by several parades, rich in music and traditional Minho costumes, the usual procession to the sea, Portuguese food and drink in the numerous taverns and restaurants that serve the thousands of visitors and, as a final exclamation point, the fireworks (called " fogo do Meio or da Santa ") whose brilliant cascade of colours and patterns announces the end of the festivities.The Stewardship
“So it is like this;
Wear gold around your neck
Little toys to give away
She's pretty, I like her
He has eyes that make him fall in love.”
Francisco Sampaio
The first procession is the Desfile da Mordomia , which takes place on the 18th. Here, traditional Viana costumes shine, from the farm workers to the varinas, to the most refined costumes of the mordomas, worn by hundreds of women from Minho.
Gold is also on display (the Custodies, the Maltese Cross, the Viana Collections, the Bead Necklace, the Queen's Earrings, the Heart of Viana, etc.), in what is the largest open-air gold display in the country and which also marks the passing of the baton of many generational ornaments, with centuries-old family pieces being carried on the chest, in some cases, by a new member of the family, thus not letting tradition die.
The procession is also famous for its drums and the parade of “Gigantones”, an emblematic figure brought over a hundred years ago from Santiago de Compostela.
The Solemn Procession
The Solemn Procession in honour of Our Lady of Agony follows on the 19th. This is the most religious moment of the Pilgrimage, where silence and respect for the patron saint reign, and where Viana sees the images of Our Lady of the Seas, Our Lady of the Assumption, Our Lady of Monserrate and Our Lord of Aflitos pass by, coming from the church of S. Domingos to meet the float of Our Lady of Agony, which is the first to arrive and wait at the sanctuary. Tradition dictates that the balconies are covered with typical quilts and flowers are thrown from the windows as the procession passes. It is faith and devotion that reigns in the streets of Viana and serves as a driving force for the men who carry the floats, among the more than a hundred extras, representing well-known biblical scenes. On this same day, the making of the Colourful Carpets begins in the streets of Ribeira, an activity that you can find out more about here . Festas d'Agonia — Solemn Procession (festasdagonia.com)The Procession to the Sea
Finally, on the 20th, the Procession to the Sea takes place. This is the day of Our Lady of Agony and prayers are the highlight of the day, in a ceremony where people are grateful for her protection and any promises they may make are fulfilled. Hundreds of vessels, duly decorated, wait for the floats, carried by men dressed appropriately, with their best checked shirts, and these are blessed upon the arrival of the patron saint and then taken to the sea together with the images of Our Lady of Agony, Our Lady of Monserrate, Our Lady of the Seas and Saint Peter. Returning to the pier, the procession is welcomed by the beautiful Salt Carpets (made during the night) and makes its way through them to the churchyard, where the procession ends with a heartfelt public bow to Our Lady.The long-awaited return of the Pilgrimage
This year the festivities are back in full force. After two years with a programme heavily affected by the pandemic and with a celebration being experienced “from a distance”, the 2022 Romaria promises a grand return. “The time is approaching when the fireworks will once again echo throughout the region, announcing, to the sound of our drums, with the unparalleled euphoria of the giants and big heads, that the Romaria da Senhora d'Agonia is back. Now, it is finally time for us to go back to Viana, to experience the festival, the patron saint, the tradition, as we did year after year. The largest Romaria in Portugal is back. (…) There will be five days and a programme with around 45 moments of live celebration. But there is still much more, counting on what each one of us will bring to the streets of Viana do Castelo during these days, because now WE ARE ALL ROMARIA” , can be read on the Festas da Agonia website.Pilgrimage Program 2022
And so it will be, according to the festivities program for 2022, published by its committee. There will be five days of highlights, but many more of activities, with the Pilgrimage officially starting on August 6th. In a program full of traditional moments that return, in addition to those already mentioned, we can also count on the Historical/Ethnographic Procession , the “Vamos para a Romaria” Parade, musical concerts, folklore festivals, the Costume Festival, Crafts Fair, a meeting of philharmonic bands, among many others. The full program of this year's Festa da Agonia can be found here .The Costume Party
One of the highlights of this and any edition of the Festival is always the Costume Festival . It takes place at the Viana do Castelo Cultural Centre and, this year, it will take place on the 20th. As you can read on the Viana City Council website, it is a “lesson in history and culture, but in the form of a party, with lots of dancing and music. It combines the beauty and richness of all the details of the typical costume of Viana do Castelo with the rigor of a careful explanation by the men and women who are most knowledgeable on the subject. A unique painting, a tribute to the ethnography and folklore of Alto Minho, in which the curious and lovers of tradition are challenged to understand the origin and history of the uses and customs associated with the costume and the art of dressing well and 'goldening' by the genuine girl from Viana. The linen costume, with various characteristic colours and shapes, is a symbol of the region that the women of Viana wore until the end of the 19th century depending on the occasion, moment in life and their status. The use of gold showed the wealth of the family, but above all the pride of the woman”.Costume Museum - Presentation - Viana do Castelo City Council (cm-viana-castelo.pt)
The Costumes
The costumes, as a prominent symbol of the region, are always one of the points of greatest interest and appreciation for the many who fill the city of Viana at this time of year. The Viana costume , which has a strong first impact due to its exuberance and beauty, is seen as a mirror of the identity and soul of the Minho people. At the Costume Museum, you can discover its many varieties, with several unique examples, and also learn more about its history. Located in the historic city center, the Museum was created in 1997 with the “mission of studying and promoting the identity and ethnographic heritage of Viana through its greatest exponent, the Viana costume”.The poster of the Pilgrimage of Agonia
The poster has already been selected and is now displayed throughout the city. Every year since 2010, the poster has been chosen through a public competition and dozens of participants have tried to become part of the history of the city's festivals and the countless public shop windows where the poster is displayed.
All the conditions are now in place for the return of the Pilgrimage. With the programme defined and the people eager to bring back the tradition, Viana is preparing to live up to the numerous distinctions it has received – including the Declaration of Interest for Tourism award in 2013 and the Five Stars Regions award in 2020 – and also to demonstrate its more than proven reputation as the largest popular festival in the country .
